Travelling north: Loaning objects for the John Rae exhibition in Stromness

This year will mark the bi-centenary of the birth of Arctic explorer and collector Dr John Rae, who was born on 30 September 1813. The John Rae 200 celebrations, organised by the Orkney Natural History Society, include an international conference, community events and an exhibition in Stromness Museum.

Poster for John Rae 200
Poster for the John Rae 200 celebrations.

This exhibition was created in partnership with National Museums Scotland and contains important objects from both collections, focusing on John Rae’s relationship with the indigenous communities he encountered on his journeys.

Born and raised in Orkney, Rae learned how to live on the land and survive as part of a remote community. His legendary physical fitness as well as his love and knowledge of the land undoubtedly contributed to his success as an explorer. This exhibition focuses on his early career in the 1840s-50s, when he was largely engaged with the Hudson Bay Company and in searches to discover the fate of the Franklin Expedition.

Objects on display include Cree/Metis, Arctic and Northwest Coast material collected by John Rae alongside material collected by others to contextualise Rae’s collection and give a fuller sense of the peoples he encountered.

Woman’s comb of walrus ivory, Inuit, collected by John Rae, likely 1848 or 1851.
Woman’s comb of walrus ivory, Inuit, collected by John Rae, likely 1848 or 1851. On loan courtesy of the University of Edinburgh Collections.
Model canoe of birchbark, Mi’kmaq, collected by John Rae, possibly 1860s. On loan courtesy of the University of Edinburgh Collections.
Model canoe of birchbark, Mi’kmaq, collected by John Rae, possibly 1860s. On loan courtesy of the University of Edinburgh Collections.

The team at National Museums Scotland, including loans, conservation and curatorial staff, worked closely with the Orkney Natural History Society to arrange the exhibition.

After months of hard work the exhibition opening loomed and a date was set for installation. As intrepid explorers ourselves, Conservator Charles Stable and I set off northwards one frosty Sunday morning, with over six hours of driving ahead of us.  The collections were securely packed into crates by our conservation team, using layers of plastazote and tyvek cushions. With the long drive as well as the notoriously turbulent ferry crossing ahead, it was especially important that the objects were well packed.

Objects for the Rae exhibition securely packed
Objects for the Rae exhibition securely packed up.

We made good time on the way up, feeling fortunate that the difficult conditions caused by snow a few days earlier had cleared. Thankfully the ferry crossing was almost smooth, getting us into Stromness on time at 8pm. Stromness Museum was only a short drive away, through the narrow winding streets (thank goodness we didn’t meet a car coming in the other direction), where we were greeted by Honorary Curator Janette Park, husband John (the local butcher, who kindly agreed to help us lift crates!) and Technical Manager Bart.

The morning revealed the spectacular views from our accommodation over to the island of Hoy and along the coast up the Mainland. Stromness Museum was only a ten minute walk away and with such fantastic scenery one of the nicest commutes I have ever had.

Spectacular views of Hoy
Spectacular views of Hoy.
Stromness Museum
Stromness Museum.

At Stromness Museum, Exhibition Curator Tom Muir and committee member Bryce Wilson were on hand to help with installation. With around 30 objects to install we hoped to be finished in one day.

Each object was unpacked and checked against a condition report written by our conservation team. This is done to make sure that nothing was damaged in transit, and also gives us a reference point to ensure that any change to an object’s condition while on display can be identified. After each object was checked it was placed in position under Tom’s direction.

As with all the best laid plans, we inevitably had to make a few changes on the day. After putting our heads together and doing a bit of re-arranging we managed to fit everything in. A few last minute (and very creative) mounting solutions helped to really show the objects off.

Display of Inuit material with items from the Stromness Museum’s collection
Display of Inuit material with items from the Stromness Museum’s collection.
Display of Northwest Coast material and a leister John Rae made himself to demonstrate his lectures
Display of Northwest Coast material and a leister (on the bottom shelf) John Rae made himself to demonstrate his lectures.
Charles preparing a mount
Charles preparing a mount.
Installation in progress (from left Charles, Bryce, Janette and Tom)
Installation in progress (from left: Charles, Bryce, Janette and Tom).
Cree/Metis bag collected by Rae and Cree/Metis coat collected by Andrew Graham
Cree/Metis bag collected by Rae and Cree/Metis coat collected by Andrew Graham.

On Tuesday we moved the empty crates into storage. Janette Park gave Charles and me a tour of Stromness Museum which surveyed its wonderful natural history, maritime and ethnographic collections. This also left some time for some sightseeing. The Orkney Islands are rich with sites of archaeological and historical significance, so one afternoon was definitely not enough!

Ring of Brodgar
Ring of Brodgar, one of the many sights of Orkney.

We also had time to visit the memorial to John Rae in St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall. This memorial is prominently positioned within the cathedral, sitting opposite a memorial to William Balfour Baikie, a fellow Orcadian and explorer.

Memorial to John Rae in St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall
Memorial to John Rae in St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall. Photo by Rebecca Marr.

It is a touching tribute to an individual whose achievements were not fully recognised during his lifetime. It is hoped that 2013 will be a moment in which to re-evaluate the legacy of John Rae, his role in Arctic collecting as well as his historical significance in Arctic exploration.

To find out more about Rae’s bi-centenary,visit the John Rae 200 website. You can also download a pdf file detailing the bi-centenary events.

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